>Some very soft flex materials can bond to the bed too much and require the use of glue stick on the bed as a separator to prevent PEI damage. A good alternative is the Textured Spring-steel sheet.

>Important rules for successful printing with flexible filaments

> Make sure the nozzle is unobstructed. If you’re not sure, do a cold pull to clean it completely.

> Loosen the idler so the gears push the filament through only very gently. If they press too hard, the filament might get entangled in the gears.

>The idler screw should be about flush to protruding 0.5 -1 mm with the plastic part when the filament is not loaded.

> In my experience it's better to have the screw flush with the nut or protruding max 1 mm.

> If you print on a smooth or satin sheet, apply a separation layer on it (glue stick or Kapton tape should work). The powder-coated TXT sheet does not need any separation layer - the print will stick just fine and can be easily removed without damaging the surface.

> Print slowly. The slower, the better. A typical speed for flexible filaments is usually 20 mm/s, the maximal recommended speed is somewhere between 30 and 40 mm/s. With higher speeds, you risk clogging the nozzle or tangling filament into the gears. For Original Prusa printers, we recommend using the “Semiflex or Flexfill 98A” or “Filatech FilaFlex40” profiles that have proper speed settings.

> Increase the nozzle temperature by 5 °C, this will lower filament resistance. Keep print cooling turned off.

> Keep the filament dry. Flexible filaments tend to absorb moisture and can be hard to print when wet.

>1. Do not use Auto Filament Load or Unload with TPU. (It would actually be nice if Prusa added an option to slow down the auto load/unload speed)

> 2. Apply a robust layer of PVA to the PEI sheet (if you're using PEI). I also recommend washing the sheet with dish soap first.

> 3. Loosen your bondech idler until is seems too loose (the top of my screw head was probably around 1-2 mm above the extruder housing)

> 4. Use a slow print speed (30mm/s max).

>I went back to all standard settings in Slicer, but changed all my print speeds to be at most 30mm/s. I used the "Generic FLEX" filament setting. I also increased infill to 60% (not sure that was necessary or not). One video said to set infill to 80%, but Slicer kept crashing when trying to slice with that setting, so I changed it to 60% and it sliced fine.

>I also downloaded the pp_tpu_config Prusa Slicer configuration from here: https://github.com/eoprede/prusa_profiles/tree/master/MK3/Slic3r (this turned out to be a mistake).

> 5. Do not use retraction (this is already part of the Generic FLEX settings in Slicer, but in case you're using a different filament).

>If you use a different program than PrusaSlicer, try to adjust retractions a little bit

>first_layer_bed_temperature = 70

> first_layer_temperature = 225

>temperature = 220

>230/60c with the fan at 50% printing at 25mm/s printed a cellphone case (thin walls and bridging) great. stringing was an issue I need to work on retraction, but otherwise it printed perfect.

>TPUをプリントするときは開き直って糸引きをあとからなんとかすることにしてリトラクション無効でプリントしてしまうのが賢いという結論に達した

>The MVS setting essentially creates a manager for the maximum amount of filament that the slicer will attempt to push through your 3D printer’s hotend.

>

>Max volumetric speed = Layer Height × Extrusion Width × Speed

>

> Independent MVS values can be set under both Print settings and Filament settings. In your print profile, you'll typically have an all-around default value based on your hotend hardware. In filament profiles, you can adjust MVS as needed to account for filament characteristics, e.g. decrease it for FLEX filaments (so you won't have to create a new print profile for flexible filaments, just a filament profile).